INTRODUCTION
The emphasis of the scheme is on providing opportunities for training
and an incentive for instructors to increase their experience and abilities.
The association tries to avoid being overly prescriptive in its approach,
believing that the development of good judgment in all aspects of climbing
is of primary importance.
The training scheme addresses the following aspects of rock-climbing
instruction:
1. Technical knowledge and skills.
2. Safe practices.
3. Effective group management skills on and off the cliff.
4. Sound environmental awareness and practices.
5. Effective teaching skills.
6. Informed climbing ethics, philosophy and historical perspective.
7. Competent emergency response.
Entry into the training scheme is open to anyone who is a competent
lead climber, capable of leading graded traditional climbs efficiently.
Previous instructing experience is not a prerequisite.
The ACIA operates with four distinct levels of qualification. These
levels are sequential and each build's upon the knowledge, skills, and
experience of the preceding level. At each level there is a training
course and subsequent assessment, separated by an interim training period
with a logbook requirement. The four levels are:
Single Pitch Guide (SPG)
Multi Pitch Guide (MPG)
Climbing Instructor (CI)
Instructor Trainer/Assessor (ITA)
OVERVIEW OF THE TRAINING SCHEME
The training scheme deals with techniques for the safe and effective
instruction of the sport of rock climbing and assumes that all participants
have knowledge of, and experience in, the basic techniques of rock climbing.
All candidates should already be competent climbers, capable of leading
efficiently on traditional (non-bolted) climbs, although the grade climbed
is not important. Previous instructing experience is not necessary.
At each level there is a training course, interim log book period, and
assessment. The duration of each course varies - see the individual
course details. The training courses at each level are broken into seminar
type sessions on various instructing techniques and there is plenty
of opportunity for ‘hands on’ practice of the topics covered.
All of the techniques that will eventually be tested at the assessment
are covered during the corresponding course.
At the end of each course there is an interim period before assessment,
during which a logbook must be kept. Interim log book requirements vary
at each level and some candidates may have extra requirements added
if it is felt that they will need more experience or training before
assessment. It is also possible for candidates to apply for exemptions
from some or all of the interim requirements if they feel they have
sufficient previous experience. The onus is on the candidate to apply.
During the interim period Rescue Seminars are offered which give an
opportunity for further formal training in the technical rescue scenarios
covered in all levels of courses. These seminars are not generally compulsory
but are available to all candidates who would like more practice in
this particular area. The rescue seminar is also open to people who
are not involved in the training scheme, but would like some formal
training in specific rescue skills.
At the end of each training course candidates are also appointed an
‘adviser’, normally from the course staff. The adviser is
a contact for the candidate to consult regarding logbook requirements
or any other problems before assessment. Once the logbook requirements
have been met the candidate can attend assessment. Candidates take as
long as needed to complete log book requirements and return for assessments.
Currency Requirements
All qualified instructors are required to hold a valid first aid certificate
and be a financial member of the association in order to be listed as
current instructors on our database.
There is an ongoing currency requirement for all levels of instructor.
This is based on a self-reporting system and is a minimum requirement
of instructing and/or climbing experience over the preceding two year
period. Specific currency requirements are explained in detail during
the courses.
COURSE BOOKING PROCEDURE
Please include a deposit of $100.00 with your completed application
form. You can find an application form on the document download page.
Please book early to avoid disappointment! The balance of the course
fee is due three weeks prior to the course starting date.
Courses have a minimum (and maximum!) numbers to make them viable. If
any course doesn't reach its minimum number of applicants three weeks
prior to it’s start date it may be cancelled. In this case all
applicants will be notified immediately and any fees payed will be returned
or applied to a future course if preferred.
A cancellation fee (loss of deposit) will apply if cancellation is made
by an applicant less than three weeks before the course starting date.
A late registration fee of $20 will apply to bookings made within two
weeks of course date. Places are not guaranteed until confirmed by the
course coordinator or executive officer.
Tax receipts will be distributed during the course. Credit cards can
be used for payment, but will incur a 4% charge additional to course
cost.
GENERAL NOTES
• You need to provide your own food and accommodation during the
course.
• You will need to provide your own climbing equipment and ropes
for the course.
• Full details and course programs are sent out three weeks prior
to the course start date.
• A course manual and logbook is included in the course fee for
SPG courses.
SINGLE PITCH GUIDE Single Pitch Guide Training Course 4 days
This is the entry-level course for instructors who would like to embark
on the scheme, or for recreational climbers who would like to learn
about instructing techniques. The course fee includes Associate Membership
of the ACIA for the current calendar year.
Entry requirements :
It is expected that candidates be competent lead climbers on natural
gear, and have their own personal climbing equipment to participate
in the training program. There is no minimum leading grade requirement
and previous instructional experience is not necessary.
Course content:
Over the four days, candidates will cover a full range of techniques
and issues relating to climbing instruction, including:
• The setting up of safe and efficient top rope and abseil teaching
systems using a variety of belays and sites.
• Methods for conducting students safely and efficiently on single-pitch
climbs.
• Self rescue techniques and emergency situations relevant to
single-pitch situations.
• Site choice with relation to safety, environmental factors and
outcome for the participant.
• Teaching techniques and group management issues.
• Environmental and land management concerns.
Single Pitch Guide Assessment 2 days
Entry requirements
• Must have completed an approved SPG training program or gained
an exemption from the ACIA
• Must present a logbook detailing (at least) the minimum requirements
of climbing and instructing experience. Individuals
who satisfy the assessment requirements at this level will be competent
to guide single pitch climbing and single pitch abseiling activities.
There is no minimum leading grade requirements for this assessment.
The course fee includes full membership for the current calendar year.
MULTI-PITCH GUIDE Multi-Pitch Guide Training Course 3 days
Entry requirements:
Must have completed the single pitch training course, or gained an exemption
from this training from the ACIA. Candidates do not need to have completed
the single pitch guide assessment.
It is expected that candidates will have strong multi-pitch climbing
experience (typically to grade 14).
Course content:
Over the three days the course will build on the skills gained in the
single-pitch guides course and give instruction and practice in various
techniques specific to multi-pitch guiding, including:
• Efficient multi-pitch belay set ups.
• Methods for conducting students safely and efficiently on multi-pitch
climbs.
• Self rescue techniques and emergency situations relating to
multi-pitch climbing.
Multi Pitch Guide Assessment 2 days
Entry requirements:
It is expected that candidates will be experienced single pitch guides
and competent recreational lead climbers on multi-pitch climbs.
• Must have completed an approved MPG training program or gained
an exemption from the ACIA.
• Must present a logbook detailing (at least) the minimum requirements
of climbing and instructing experience.
Individuals who satisfy the assessment requirements at this level will
be competent to guide people on multi pitch climbs and abseils. They
will demonstrate all of the skills, knowledge and experience associated
with the SPG level as well as demonstrating stronger technical, guiding
and rescue skills appropriate to multi pitch climbs. The minimum lead
climbing standard expected is grade 14.
CLIMBING INSTRUCTOR Climbing Instructor Training Course 3 days
Entry Requirements:
It is expected that candidates in the CI training program are experienced
SPGs, have completed the MPG training course and are experienced lead
climbers. These courses are normally arranged on an as needed basis.
Candidates should apply to the ACIA office with evidence of their suitability
including details of the following minimum requirements:
• Five years of climbing experience (min. 2000m./year) on a variety
of rock types and including climbs up to grade 18.
• Three years of regular guiding and/or instruction.
Course content:
The focus of this course is very much on the distinction between guiding
and the instruction of clients to operate independently. There is discussion
of effective teaching models, the assessment of a client’s level
of skill, developing an appropriate teaching progression and practical
techniques to minimise risk during training and afterwards.
Practical sessions include:
• Structuring a ‘learning to lead’ course with case
scenarios.
• Techniques for managing a student making their first lead climb.
• Rescue techniques relevant to dealing with a student lead climber.
• Teaching gear placement and belay set ups to clients.
Climbing Instructor Assessment 2 days
Entry requirements:
Should be a qualified MPG and have completed the CI Training and all
interim log book requirements.
Individuals who satisfy the assessment requirements at this level will
be competent to teach others to be independent climbers (top-rope, lead
climbing and abseiling). They will demonstrate a high level of personal
climbing competence and would normally be leading to a minimum of grade
18.
INSTRUCTOR TRAINER/ASSESSOR This level of qualification is used by the
ACIA for the purpose of staffing ACIA courses. All instructors working
on ACIA courses or assessments should hold this level of qualification.
To be involved in the delivery and assessment of ACIA courses, individuals
should:
• Be a current CI.
• Have a current workplace training and assessment qualification
or negotiated equivalent.
• Participate in an ‘apprenticeship’ system with a
current ACIA trainer/assessor.
• Demonstrate the judgment and experience required to conduct
instruction and assessment of the previous levels.
For more information, please contact your regional centre, or the ACIA
executive officer.
RESCUE SEMINAR 2 days This is a two-day course intended for people
involved in our training scheme or for any recreational climbers wanting
to brush up on their self rescue skills. It is not necessary to be taking
part in the ACIA training scheme.
During the two days participants will be taught, and will have the opportunity
to practice, a variety of self-rescue techniques including:
• Prusik knots and prusiking techniques.
• Hoisting Systems (assisted and unassisted).
• The assisted abseil.
• Lowering off with a knot change.
• Assisting a stuck lead climber
